Kanazawa, often called “Little Kyoto,” charmed me with its blend of tradition, elegance, and authenticity. Spending two nights in a capsule hotel here was a surprisingly delightful experience. While it was technically a hostel, the quality, cleanliness, and hospitality surpassed many hotels I’ve stayed in. Each capsule provided privacy, comfort, and even a small TV. The shared facilities included a sauna and cosy pyjamas—a delightful touch. The bed was big and comfortable, though my friend thought it was too firm. Despite differing opinions on the mattress, we both agreed on one thing: the value was incredible. For the price of a typical European hostel room, we enjoyed a luxurious, private experience.
But Kanazawa wasn’t just all where we stayed—it was about what we discovered.
With my friend still sleeping, my exploration began at Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens. Arriving at dawn allowed us to experience its serenity before the crowds. It's not that Kanazawa is crowded anyway, but still. As the morning light filtered through the trees, every corner felt like a painting. The garden’s design, with its seasonal flowers and serene water features, truly embodies the Japanese aesthetic of harmony. ”Kenrokuen” means “garden that combines six characteristics." These six characteristics are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water sources and breathtaking views. Not every garden in Japan can have all of these, but Kenrokuen does.
Understanding Geisha Culture
Kanazawa taught me more about geisha culture, clearing up myths and misconceptions. The Westerner equates geishas with prostitution, a lack of knowledge fostered by movies like Memoirs of a Geisha. Much more is the situation than this sordid image. Geishas are musicians educated in the traditional forms, dancers educated in traditional arts, and practitioners of the traditional tea ceremony who work under formalised codes of behavior. This probably came about from sex workers posing as "geisha girls" for American soldiers after World War II. Historically, geishas and oiran (senior courtesans) lived in the same houses in entertainment quarters, helping to create the misunderstandings.
During my stay in Kanazawa, I began to appreciate the geishas' talent and training differently, respecting their craft as cultural guardians rather than entertainers in the Western sense.
Kanazawa has three old geisha districts, each unique with its own atmosphere and charm. These are living testaments to Kanazawa's heritage and history, surviving WWII bombings and still retaining their feudal roots.
Higashi Chaya Gai (The "East" Tea District) is the largest and most famous of Kanazawa's geisha districts. More commonly referred to as Kanazawa's "Old Town," it features cobblestone streets lined with stately wooden townhouses, previously designed to amuse the samurai families and merchant class. About two-thirds of the district's 140 buildings are preserved, retaining their original charm.
At the Kaikaro Teahouse, a 200-year-old gem, I walked through rooms with gold-woven tatami mats and imagined the opulent geisha performances that used to take place within. It is not just a teahouse but also a museum, a treasure trove of stories on geisha living.
Nishi Chaya Gai: The "West" Tea District is a perfect choice for a less crowded, less touristy experience. This single-road district has the same Edo-era atmosphere but with a cozier feel. The district feels like a secret gem, with fewer tourists and an ageless beauty that invites you to linger.
Nestled along the cobbled riverside, Kazue-machi, the Hidden Tea District, feels like a scene from a romantic novel. Its setting inspired Hiroyuki Itsuki’s Asano River Dusk, a story of forbidden love. This district is also known for its scenic slopes, like Akari-zaka (“Lighted Slope” always with sunlight) and Kuragari-zaka (“Dark Slope” even during a sunny day; it’s dark there). Strolling through Kazue-machi, with its picturesque views and quiet charm, felt like stepping into a dream.
The Nagamachi Samurai District, where the spirit of the samurai lived on in houses well-preserved and winding alleys. The Nomura-ke home with its beautiful garden and artefacts was a standout, and it was easy to envision life in the Edo era. I recommend becoming lost in this ward, entering everywhere that you see open doors, since the majority of the houses are available to visitors but not all are posted on tourist areas of social media, such as the Former Takamine house, which is unadorned on the inside, freely walk around it, just as you do with the zen garden. We were the only tourists, and the staff member was absolutely wonderful. The Myoryuji Temple, or Ninja Temple, was a marvel of ingenuity. Hidden doors, secret passages, and trap-like building design made this tour both equally captivating and enlightening.
Evening Magic
Kanazawa's tea districts were magical at night. The roads glowed softly under the illumination of lanterns, and the Edo-period architecture seemed to be filled with history. Strolling through the Higashi Chaya District, I felt a deep sense of connection to the history surrounding me.
Culinary Adventures in Kanazawa
Kanazawa is just as much a feast for the eyes as for the palate. Nicknamed "the ice cream capital" and "Gold Leaf City," it's famous for its gold-leaf-dusted ice cream. But it’s not just about desserts; Kanazawa’s culinary scene is a treasure trove of flavours.
Omicho Market was one of the best part of our trip. Seafood stalls full of their fresh catch tempted us with their freshness, and the sashimi and sushi here are the best that we have eaten in Japan. The quality of the ingredients speaks for itself, and every bite is like a celebration of Kanazawa sea treasures.
Kanazawa also introduced me to a flavor revelation: sashimi from wagyu beef. I never imagined that raw meat could be so delicious, so delicate, and so memorable. Omicho Market, the colorful seafood heaven of the city, is an absolute must-visit. It is here that I had the most memorable sushi of my trip, and that says a lot given how renowned the nation is for its sushi. The freshness of the ingredients, variety of the offerings, and sheer work of art presented on the plates left me agog.
And then there was the time we searched for an open ramen restaurant late at night. We spotted a small restaurant with just six bar seats. The menu, written entirely in Japanese characters on the wall, added a touch of mystery to our dinner. Having the chef prepare our ramen in front of us was an experience in itself. The ramen was rich, tasty, and satisfying —an unforgettable meal for less than 3 euros.
Kanazawa’s Lessons and Insights
Kanazawa taught me to slow down, to appreciate the moment, and to appreciate the artistry in everyday life. From the beautiful wagyu sashimi lovingly prepared to the serene beauty of Kenrokuen Garden, every experience felt intentional and meaningful.
This “Little Kyoto” may not have the same fame as its namesake, but its charm, authenticity, and elegance left a lasting impression. If you happen to be in Kanazawa, absorb its beat, taste its flavors, and let its stories become yours.
Kanazawa’s preserved architecture and cultural treasures reminded me of the importance of conserving heritage. Its tea districts provided a deeper understanding of geisha culture, dispelling myths generated in the West. Geishas are not prostitutes but artists, masters of traditional music, dance, and the tea ceremony. Their work is a testament to discipline, skill, and the preservation of Japanese traditions.
The city also taught me to live in the moment. If you find something you love, don’t wait—get it. Kanazawa’s unique shops and markets are full of one-of-a-kind items, but opportunity and time can disappear from you in a hurry. Waiting until later almost guarantees you won't be able to find it again—or won't have time. I left Japan without even a magnet and some other things which I intended to buy later, a lesson I won't soon forget.
Kanazawa’s combination of history, culture, and cuisine makes it a place like no other. Whether marvelling at the artistry of the geisha districts, savouring the freshest seafood at Omicho Market, or wandering the serene slopes of Kazue-machi, every moment in Kanazawa feels special. It’s a city that invites you to slow down, savour the details, and immerse yourself in its timeless beauty.
1st-day expenses: 4992 YEN ~30Eur plus hotel)
1238 YEN sushi for a brunch
100x2 (400 Yen) coffee from vending machine)
500 YEN persimons from Market
1200 YEN Ninja temple
550 YEN samurai house
300 YEN tea
804 YEN dinner and dessert
2nd day (5166 YEN ~32Eur Plus hotel)
990 YEN breakfast in the hotel
160 YEN sweet in the street
1400 YEN tea experience in the 200-year-old tea house and museum
882 YEN lunch
500 YEN ice cream
1324 YEN dinner
Related Posts
