Nara: A Timeless Journey Beyond the Deer – 1.5 Days

Nara… a lovely, unforgettable Nara. While many visitors opted for a quick day trip, I chose to stay for a day and a half, and even that felt too short. Nara offers so much more than its famous deer and historic temples. Its treasures extend beyond the city, reaching into the surrounding countryside with sites like Horyuji Temple, home to the world’s oldest surviving wooden structures. These ancient buildings evoke images of Japan as it existed over 1,300 years ago.

One highlight was the Hasedera Temple, often called the “Temple of Flowers.” Though it’s a little over an hour from central Nara, the journey is well worth it. The approach to Hasedera is lined with charming shops and restaurants, creating a vibrant atmosphere. As you ascend the covered stairway—lined with stone lanterns and blooming flowers—the beauty of the temple begins to unfold. At the summit, the wooden stage juts out over the valley, offering breathtaking views. This setting rivals Kyoto’s Kiyomizudera Temple but without the bustling crowds. Hasedera is stunning year-round, with peonies in late spring and fiery red leaves in autumn complementing the five-story pagoda below the main hall.

Nara’s Historical Significance

Nara Prefecture, nestled between Osaka and Kyoto in the Kansai Region, is often referred to as the cradle of Japanese civilisation. This landlocked gem, once known as Yamato, was the heart of Japan’s early emperors. In 710, Nara became the site of the country’s first permanent capital, Heijo (modern-day Nara City), marking the dawn of a new era in Japanese history.

Temples and Timeless Beauty

One of the most memorable experiences was visiting Nigatsudo, a part of the Todaiji Temple complex. As the sun sets, Nigatsudo offers one of Nara’s most picturesque scenes. The cobbled paths leading up to the temple, framed by ancient stone walls and wooden staircases, are as enchanting as the views from the top. Lanterns illuminate the space, casting a magical glow over the city below.

Todaiji Temple is a masterpiece famous for housing Japan’s largest bronze Buddha. This monumental structure is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and one of the most revered sites in Japan. To enter the temple, visitors pass through the towering Nandaimon Gate, flanked by two 8-meter-tall guardian statues with Herculean physiques, watching over all who pass.

Inside the Great Hall (Daibutsuden), the 15-meter-tall Buddha stands as a symbol of Nara’s spiritual and architectural grandeur. But there’s another fascinating aspect of Todaiji Temple: a column located within the hall, which has a small hole carved through its centre. It’s said that if a person can pass through this hole, they will be granted good luck and enlightenment. The hole, which is roughly the size of the Buddha’s nostril, is symbolic of the Buddhist teachings of achieving spiritual enlightenment through perseverance. Many visitors try to squeeze through the hole as a form of prayer or as a test of their strength and resolve, adding a sense of playfulness to the otherwise awe-inspiring temple experience.

The Gentle Deer of Nara

Of course, Nara’s iconic deer are a highlight. Revered as messengers of the gods, these gentle creatures roam freely and seem to embody the spirit of the city. Feeding them “deer cookies” is an experience in itself—especially as they bow politely in gratitude. During the traditional Shikayose or “deer calling,” a musician from the Nara Deer Preservation Foundation plays Beethoven’s Symphony No. 6 on a French horn, summoning deer from the depths of the forest. This unique tradition, held in July and December, adds a magical touch to Nara’s charm.

A Taste of Tradition

Nara was a place where we could say we had almost a ryokan experience. Staying in Nara felt like stepping into a different world, where time moves more slowly, and every detail is infused with tradition. We stayed in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese guesthouse that offered a truly unique immersion into Japanese culture, hospitality, and lifestyle. From the moment we stepped inside, we were transported into a serene, almost sacred environment.

The rooms were furnished with tatami floors and soft mats made from woven straw. It’s not just a matter of removing your shoes—at a ryokan, you’re not even allowed to walk on the tatami with slippers. It’s a reminder of the reverence with which the space is treated. Instead of a regular bed, we slept on futons—thin mattresses laid out on the tatami at night and neatly stored during the day. There’s something deeply comforting about it, a simplicity that made the experience feel even more authentic.

The most endearing part of the ryokan experience was the yukata—a lightweight cotton kimono that we were given to wear around the guesthouse and nearby areas. It’s a small thing, but wearing the yukata made me feel like I was participating in a living tradition, like a link in a long chain of travellers who had passed through this same space before.

What stood out, though, was the exceptional Japanese hospitality (omotenashi) that made us feel like honoured guests rather than tourists. The staff attended to our every need with such care and politeness that it left a lasting impression. Their thoughtful gestures, like offering tea in the afternoon or making sure we were comfortable at every turn, brought a warmth that went beyond the physical space.

One of the most memorable experiences was sampling umazake, Nara’s famed refined sake, which is closely tied to the region’s history. As we sipped, the rich, smooth flavour seemed to connect us even more deeply with the land. I had a small, delightful conversation with our waiter after mentioning that one of the sakes shared my name, and it was a reminder of how travel can be so much more enriching when we engage with the local culture, even if it’s just with a few words in Japanese.

The Ryokan experience wasn’t just a place to sleep—it was an experience to live within. It left me feeling deeply connected to the culture, grateful for the opportunity to be part of something so timeless. It’s moments like these that make travel truly transformative, and Nara, with its hospitality and sense of tradition, will always have a special place in my heart.

Craft and Cuisine

Nara’s artistic heritage shines through Akahada pottery, a style rooted in the iron-rich clay of Mt. Akahada. Known for its cream glaze and Nara-inspired motifs, these pieces are prized in tea ceremonies and as collectables. Speaking of tea, I couldn’t resist buying a finely crafted Chasen (tea whisk) from the bamboo forests of Takayama, which have supplied Japan with these essential tools for over 500 years. I got mine here as well :) 

No visit to Nara would be complete without indulging in its culinary delights. From the freshly made mochi at Nakatanidou—where you can watch the rhythmic pounding of rice cakes—to the countless desserts lining the streets, Nara is a paradise for food lovers.

Nara is a place that stays with you long after you leave. Whether it’s the tranquil temples, the playful deer, or the warmth of its people and traditions, every moment feels like a glimpse into Japan’s timeless soul. I left Nara with a sense of gratitude and a wish to return, perhaps next time with a little more knowledge of Japanese, to connect even deeper with this extraordinary place.